Check out this video short: Journey as Destination - Traversing the Roof of the World by Bicycle (Vimeo). Shot by David A during his cycling trip in Tibet in summer/fall of 2007. It brought back lots of memories. Even now, three years later, I vividly remember most of the places David cycled through… His trip started out in Kashgar, Xinjiang, and continued for three months riding all the way to Dali, Yunnan. I, on the other hand, was already under way for three months before arriving in Kashgar in late September of 2006, enjoying cycling through northern India and Pakistan. Our roads split in Saga. He seemed to make his way toward Lhasa and farther East whereas I turned sharp south and rode down to Nepal and back onto Indian plains.
Enjoy it, it’s worth it! You will better understand what it means to “enjoy” Tibet on a bike… Makes me wanna go back again. Thanks for sharing, David;)
I’m happy to report that my worries about missing out on cycling in Western China and Central Asia this year were quickly put to rest. In the past few weeks, following the Tibet unrest and embarrassment surrounding the Olympic torch run, I read and heard, either online (China Travel Feels a Chill) or from friends traveling there right now, how messy the pre-Olympics 2008 travel inside China is for foreigners. Ranging from visa problems (only short-term, hard-to-renew visas are currently available), dealing with over-zealous PSB officers (public security bureau), to just being randomly turned around and not allowed into many areas (Tibet is still virtually off limits as of June 22nd)…
But to keep my dream alive, here and there, I always find something to read for inspiration. The latest issue of Bicycling magazine (July ‘08) just published an article by Dan Koeppel “You Will Be Burried” about his travels around and on the Silk Route. He only spent 16 days cycling, fully supported, organized through Bike China Adventures, Inc. Full support comes for a price though: $2,590 (includes support vehicle, guide, meals and accomodation). Kind of steep, if you ask me. I could easily go on for at least 4 months unsupported with so much money. This is how I slept when cycling on the Silk Road in 2006. But that’s just me… Sorry to sound too frugal;) Notwithstanding the nuances of different modes of cycling, it is still on a bike and an amazing read. Thanks for sharing Dan Koeppel, wherever you are.
I have been following intensely the human tragedy escalating in Tibet and the subsequent P.R. disaster of the Olympic torch run around the world. In the past two months I asked myself if this is the right time to visit China. The 2008 Olympics bring too much heightened sensitivity toward foreigners and government crackdown on basic human rights of its own citizens doesn’t help either. Maybe, I just want to wait and see how the Olympics, the Chinese government propaganda and, most importantly, the ‘Tibet issue’ will play out. I want to see ‘real’ China, not this ‘fake’ posturing surrounding the Olympics… The recent issue of the Economist summarizes it fairly well: Angry China.
There is nothing that keeps me away from this trip externally. Logistics-wise, I know that I could have easily sneaked into Tibet if I wanted to. Traveling by bike allows me to get past numerous checkpoints rather easily;) Besides, most of my route was outside Tibet anyways. Money-wise, I travel cheap and flight tickets (my major expense) from NYC to Beijing are still fairly good deals. Despite increased tourism during and after the Olympics, it has no relevance to my travels which happen well away from major cities and tourist centers. Most importantly, I have no ill feelings toward ordinary Chinese. I still remember fondly my encounters with people who offered me help and shared their stories with me. Plus, there is great interest in modern China on my part. It is a huge country in the midst of almost ‘revolutionary’ peaceful transition and witnessing it firsthand, from the ground perspective, has always been my dream. I got a taste of it during my 2006 cycling trip around the Himalayas when I biked through parts of Xinjiang and Tibet, China’s western provinces. It sparkled my enthusiasm and I promised to myself to come back, in whatever capacity, to see more of the Middle Kingdom. But that must wait…
Right now, I feel my excitement for this trip waving away… So, to keep it simple, I’m postponing it to some time in 2009 when all the hoopla will most likely go away. I have decided instead to do the Great Divide Mountain Biking trip again. This time, I want to do the whole Tour Divide ride starting in Banff, Alberta and finishing in Antelope Wells, New Mexico. For 4-5 weeks in late July and August I will cycle (or easily tour rather than race) over 2,700 miles over some of the world’s most beautiful scenery… I hope to take better pictures, ride and stop at places I missed the first time around, and just have pure outdoor fun!
In the meantime, I will post photos and blog about anything that strikes my imagination. I have been taking tons of pictures around New York City and love to share them, too;)
PS: Someone I admire, and call a friend, despite never meeting him, is currently skateboarding across China trying to break some records along the way. Check out his blog, stunning pictures and amazing stories at 14 degrees off the beaten path. It is really worth it!!!
Browsing regularly through my local Barnes & Nobles store, I picked up two titles that drew my interest immediately. First one is a book written by Peter Hessler: Oracle Bones: A Journey in Time through China. I read about it some time ago and I knew that soon or later I will pick it up. In light of my upcoming travels in Western China again, it is not surprising that I did so now. I just scanned through the first couple of pages and I’m amazed at how good storyteller the author is. To sample his writing style, check out The Atlantic Monthly web archives from February 1999, where he published Tibet through Chinese Eyes, an insightful article on Han Chinese in Tibet. You can read more about Peter at Rollf Pott’s Vagabonding website: Travel Writers: Peter Hessler or listen to his audio clips from an interview with ABC News correspondent Todd Carrel in June 2006 on National Geographic Voices - Peter Hessler in China about what it means for millions of young people to uproot themselves from their rural villages in the hope of fulfilling their dreams in China’s booming cities..
The second book is by Tony and Maureen Wheeler: Unlikely Destinations: The Lonely Planet Story. Anyone who backpacked on a budget to faraway locations will know the name of Tony Wheeler. He and his wife started the Lonely Planet Publications company. This book is a page turner for anyone interested in independent travel. It is a story of young couple who embraced travel to not-so-popular destinations around the world in the 1970s, help to popularize the ‘backpacker’s trails’ through writing and publishing of guidebooks and inspired generations of people, young and old alike, to discover the ‘real’ world for themselves… Tony and his wife Maureen, vividly describe their first trip overland through Asia, following the hippie trails to India and Nepal, ultimately arriving in Australia, the country they adopted as their new home. They recount their story from simple beginnings of Lonely Planet guidebooks to the multinational company it is today, and everything in between… They share their infectious passion for travel, in its purest and unburdened form, with a backpack and open itinerary. Plus, Tony also offers shrewd analysis of travel book publishing business and Lonely Planet’s growing pains in the new internet age.
An interesting article Tibet’s peace of the grave by Vaclav Havel was recently published in the Guardian’s “comment is free” section. It is a fresh reminder of how communist governments used to operate not so long ago in countries of Central Europe. China’s ruthless response only confirms that its totalitarian practices are still ‘alive’ and ‘well used’ on Tibetans, other minorities, as well as its own citizens. The most telling quote from the article:
Even as we write, it is clear that China’s rulers are trying to reassure the world that peace, quiet, and “harmony” have again prevailed in Tibet. We all know this kind of peace from what has happened in the past in Burma, Cuba, Belarus and a few other countries - it is called the peace of the graveyard.
On another note, Avaaz.org - The World in Action has collected close to 1.4 million signatures for their Stand with Tibet petition. It will be symbolically delivered tomorrow, March 31st, 2008, all around the world to Chinese embassies and consulates. I’m planning to be there too, here in New York City. For events around the world to join the cause see the Students for a free Tibet website.
Please, support Tibetan people’s cause by signing a petition at Avaaz.org - The World in Action to be forwarded to the Chinese President Hu Jintao:
As citizens around the world, we call on you to show restraint and respect for human rights in your response to the protests in Tibet, and to address the concerns of all Tibetans by opening meaningful dialogue with the Dalai Lama. Only dialogue and reform will bring lasting stability. China’s brightest future, and its most positive relationship with the world, lies in harmonious development, dialogue and respect.
Welcome to my blog where I share outdoor adventures, travel experiences and random musings from home and faraway places alike... My current plans: 1. [Summer-Fall 2010] Vagabonding alongside the Silk Route: It’ll be me, my bike and wide-open spaces of Western China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan and Tajikistan for 2-3 months... 2. [2011 or 2012] Motorbiking from Alaska to Patagonia: Just started thinking about it. Plan: Find a used thumper and hit back roads exploring this classic route all the way from the Deadhorse in Prudhoe Bay, U.S. to Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego, Argentina. Plus, practice and improve my Spanish, too...
. I read about it some time ago and I knew that soon or later I will pick it up. In light of my upcoming travels in Western China again, it is not surprising that I did so now. I just scanned through the first couple of pages and I’m amazed at how good storyteller the author is. To sample his writing style, check out 
